David Chang has been profiled in New York Magzine, worshipped by Franz Bruni in the Times, and generally celebrated as the chef of the new century. All that would be annoying were he not an all around asshole. He sells a $200 pork butt that must be ordered in advance. He refuses to serve vegetarians. He loves pigs, shellfish, and spices. He may have got his start selling noodles—hardly haute—but now he’s opened an $85 nine course prix fix 12-seater. As his crusade to down-class fine dining continues with the opening of Momo Ko, on 1st Ave btwn 10th and 11th, Chang let’s the Times’ Julia Moskin hops into his kitchen today:
AT what point in the chef-diner relationship is it O.K. to offer a backrub?
One night last week, during dress rehearsals for the tiny new restaurant Momofuku Ko, David Chang could barely stand, much less cook. (“Back pain, stress-related,” one of the sous-chefs opined under his breath.) Each of the 12 diners, seated a narrow counter’s width away, was in a position to suggest remedies, panaceas and stretches, which the chef attempted in the sliver of space between the steamer and the sorbet freezer.
“I’ll be O.K.” he said, waving off an offer of Valium. “Let me do the foie.”
That’s the foodie quote of 2008.
Benzoids makes Chang a happy Chef.
I’ve been to Momofuku Ssam, voted best resto of 07 by NYT and GQ, several times. (Guilty by proximity: Ssam’s right next door to famed Red Sox bar Professor Thom’s, on 2nd and 13th.) By staying open until 2am, Ssam has that Blue Ribbon insider-y, late-night feel, but it takes out the glitz while still keeping the (Brooklyn, Bowie) glam. Sliced Virginia hams can be paired with skate wings and sometimes lobster. How about pork buns with scallops, $200 aged rib-eyes with Jonah crab claws? The servers are professional. The music is loud (and generally bad, though I’ve heard Built to Spill there a lot). The crowd is young (mid-20s to mid-30s) for a fine dining spot. Go late, split dishes, use the hot sauce, and drink sake. Oh, and take a Valium. Chang is anti-anxiety.
TAGS: Brooklyn, Built To Spill, free, Music, New York, Red Sox
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March 12th, 2008 at 2:35 pm
Also, the sweetbreads there are unbeatable, taste like silk. The oysters are the best in the city, with a kimche consume on top of them, amazing…
March 12th, 2008 at 2:41 pm
Fuck, I forgot about the sweetbreads…so bootylic’…Sean, your dining expertise is unparalleled.